CHAMONIX UPDATE

07 December 2003


The town
I arrived in Chamonix two days ago to find what can only be described as a dry town (strictly in the sense of no snow, there is enough drinking going on here to enebriate a herd of elephants). The snow fall from the 27th was nowhere to be seen due to an unseasonal warm snap. Fortunately this has now ended and it's bitterly cold. We awoke this morning to a light snow cover at resort level and the clouds are still thick on the mountains as I write so with a bit of luck there's more happening up top.

The pistes
Of the Chamonix ski areas only the Grand Montets from Argentiere is open. My boss is dragging his feet on the lift pass front but I've spoken to a few people who been up there to give it a go. Apparently both the bubble and chair are open. The runs are a bit icy but they've had the snow cannons busy so the cover is good. Off piste is a mix of half way decent powder and bricks of solid ice. Beginners beware, this area is pretty steep, take an attentive friend to look out for you.

The bars
Back down in the town the bars are starting to open and fill up. Daytime is pretty quiet everywhere, I guess everyone is working or up at Grand Montets. In the evenings head to Rue des Moulins. At the end is Bar Dup with happy hour from 5-7pm, 2 for 1 beers and wine. Further up is Cy Bar where you can use the internet, have a coffee and a snack, or drink and on Wednesday this week you can drink your fill for 20 Euros. Dick's isn't open yet. The Queen Vic has a happy hour from 6-9pm.

Despite all the early cheap drinking bars don't fill till 11pm, if the bar you arrive at is quiet, move on. The crowds will be gathered nearby. Pool tables are everywhere as are tons of friendly mutts. Choucat is open till 4am so if you fancy a dance, some extortionate prices (but free to get in) and some terrible exibitions of French dancing... I'll see you there.

Let it snow...
Overall we're all just waiting for things to get started. The atmosphere is expectant and cautiously hopeful. Everyone is chatting to everyone else and you can't fail to have a fun night out. However a ski resort isn't complete without the white stuff so pray to whatever is out there for lots of it.

Report from Emma - Natives Reporter in Chamonix

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