26 January 2003

Just back from a few days boarding in Bosnia. Here's the low-down

Land mines and 30p beers
Spent a couple of days boarding in Bjelasnica, one of the 1984 Olympic sites, located in the Bosnian - Croat 'Federation' part of the country, and about a 40 min drive from Sarajevo. Pistes are fairly limited as has only 2 functioning lifts left; one fairly difficult T-bar and a rather slow double chair. These only go about half way up the mountain but you can give the local skidoo man a few quid to take you to the top / pack your snowshoes and really hit the wilderness.

I didn't due to time but a local contact of mine regularly shoes it up to the top of the Franz Klammer downhill (2 hrs walk up.) for punter-free powder and non-groomed pistes. Masses of powder (snowed 3 feet over 2 days!) but some of the off-piste over the back of the mountain is questionable due to land mines. Still, fun to play on and v few other boarders ('ski-boards' in the local Bosnian) so makes you feel like a celebrity as many of the local skiers stop to stare at you.

Another benefit is the snow-cooled bottles of beer sold at the bottom of each run (of which there are only 5!) by local hawkers for 30p. And on the Sunday I was there all the lift operators were happily swigging away throughout the day. Very non-North American.

Jahorina facilities
Spent another couple of days in Jahorina, about an hours' drive from Sarajevo and located in the Bosnian-Serb Republika Sprska. Much less fighting happened here and as a result is in much better nick with better facilities. Indeed, unlike Bjelasnica much of the rental equipment was produced after 1985. Laid out like a mini Les Trois Vallees, 4 long chairs take you up to the top of 3 ridges with a variety of routes down. Loads of powder and off-piste without the mine danger of Bjelasnica makes for some very good boarding.

Apparently the weather is more dependable / less wild in Jahorina and had great sunshine on one of the days. Indeed, the snow conditions reminded me of the Colorado 'champagne powder', although at around -15C it seemed much colder. Lift tickets were under £10 a day for both resorts (not the term really applies) and food is really cheap. And for us boys, the local girls have to be seen to be believed. Trust me. Verdict is to head for Jahorina for facilities or Bjelasnica for exploring. But highly recommended for the experience along with good boarding.

Check out this forum on boarding in Bosnia.

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